Tuesday, January 4, 2011

fabric contusions & siamese dreams

Coming across new spring favorites such as the darling CELINE boxy bag, minimalistic stylings of Joseph Altuzarra, those JC wooden platforms in a array of textures & prints, or gizmo themed articles of clothing thanks to Brian Lichtenberg (why the fuck would he collab with f21 is beyond meeee, graphic tees does no designer justice--i'm sorry) has me forgetting one of the most important collections of all- Rei Kawakubo's own  
Comme des Garรงons Spring RTW 2011!
The pioneer of dark, distorted & intense asymmetrical cuts of fabric in disarray comes back in a even newer concept of gothic-ism. In an aerodynamic way of feathers, nets & tiers of jackets upside down, the models down the runway resembled bat-like creatures of avian nature, ruffles take shape in modifiable tech-savvy fabric, a new level of cocooning has been created through layers of leather & gore-tex, trenches transformed into solid cinched pencil frocks,maxi dress volume equivalent to that of a quilt--with seams to intensify, cut away white quilt striped blazers, dual textured jackets, PVC side paneled capes with quad-sleeves, moto-coats that are quasi kimonos, combat brassieres over mesh tops, bubbled over and draped askew skirts in stripe-y cotton twill, leather A-lines' sides warped into waves of black froth, military jackets literally sewn upside down onto waist lines with all arms & lapels open.
I feel this collection takes on a new approach to the much sought after minimal look, a more fanciful--deceptively playful collection that isn't all serious at first until you closely observe it's concealed movements and doppelganger details. Quite a leap into the new year, yes? (CDG dotty tops are baaaaack--hey you can't embrace the word nostalgia from an era you've never lived!)
p.s. i remember a student at AAU fashion show having models sport belts as way to restrain arm movement back in 09.